Frequently Asked Questions

It depends on the grass. St. Augustine wants 2.5 to 4 inches; Bermuda is happier at 1 to 2. Cutting below the range for your type thins the lawn and lets weeds in.

Weekly through the growing season. The rule that matters more than the calendar: never take off more than a third of the blade in one cut.

Dull blades tear the grass instead of cutting it. The torn tips brown off, and the whole lawn looks pale even though it was just mowed.

Left, most of the time. They break down quickly and return nitrogen to the soil. Bagging makes sense when the grass is wet, badly overgrown, or diseased.

Edging cuts a clean vertical line along drives and walks. Trimming knocks down the grass a mower cannot reach — fence lines, posts, bed edges.

Most shrubs in late winter before new growth. Spring bloomers are the exception — prune those right after they flower, or you cut off next year's blooms.

About a quarter of the canopy. Past that, the plant answers with weak, fast water sprouts that need cutting again the following season.

Usually years of shearing the outside flat. The dense top shades out the lower growth. Thinning cuts open the interior back up to light.

No. Sealers trap moisture against the wound. A clean cut just outside the branch collar closes on its own.

Topping is not pruning. It strips the canopy, forces weak regrowth and shortens the tree's life. Proper reduction cuts back to a lateral branch instead.

A wet mat of leaves blocks light and holds moisture against the crown of the grass. That is where winter fungus starts.

Late winter for most. Leaving the stems standing through the cold protects the crowns and gives beneficial insects somewhere to overwinter.

Fall removes what would smother the lawn over winter. Spring clears the debris that accumulated and preps the beds before growth starts.

One notch shorter, not a scalp. Slightly lower reduces matting under leaves; scalping exposes the crown to cold and sets the lawn back in spring.

Usually, yes. What comes off the roof ends up in the beds and against the foundation, and that is where most drainage complaints begin.

Nearly always the base. The depth of the aggregate and how well it was compacted decide whether the surface stays flat, not the stone on top of it.

Yes. Water trapped behind a wall is what pushes it over. Gravel backfill and a drain line give it somewhere to go.

Flagstone is irregular natural stone laid piece by piece. Pavers are uniform and interlock, which holds up better under traffic and repeated freeze cycles.

Sometimes, if the slab is sound and drains properly. Concrete that is cracked, heaving or holding water has to come out first.

Dry-laid stone is ready as soon as it is finished. Mortared work needs a few days to cure before it takes weight.

Sun, soil and water decide it before anything else. Plants matched to the conditions of the spot need far less input to look good.

At their mature width, not the size in the pot. Most foundation and window problems trace back to something planted too close to begin with.

Two to three inches. Deeper starts to suffocate roots, and mulch piled against trunks holds moisture where it causes rot.

Fall for most trees and shrubs. Roots establish through the cool months so the plant is ready before summer heat arrives.

Almost always water. New plantings need deep, infrequent watering aimed at the root ball — the lawn's sprinkler schedule is not enough.

Head spacing or nozzle choice is wrong for the pressure in that zone. Coverage is a layout problem before it is a watering-schedule problem.

Usually a leak underground or a zone running unseen. Isolating the system zone by zone is how it gets found.

Yes. Heads, nozzles, valves, controllers and wiring are all serviceable regardless of who put the system in.

Twice a year at minimum — once at spring startup and once before the first freeze. Most irrigation damage is found after the fact, not prevented.

Rarely. A single dead zone is usually the valve solenoid or a break in the wire to it. A controller fault normally takes out more than one zone.

In direct sun, yes — hotter than living grass. Shade, the infill chosen, and a quick rinse before use all bring the surface temperature down.

Through a perforated backing into a compacted aggregate base underneath. The base does the draining; the turf just lets water pass.

Less, not none. Brushing keeps the blades upright, rinsing clears dust, and debris needs removing. No mowing, watering or fertilizer.

Yes, with the right infill and regular rinsing. Urine drains through the backing; solids lift off the surface.

Commonly fifteen years or more, depending on traffic and sun exposure. The base underneath usually determines how well it ages, not the fibres.